I think it's quite beautiful, and similar to the concept for a focal point I illustrated using Augustus Saint-Gauden's garden in the previous post. It also suggests a Patrick Blanc-like living wall, though in simplified form.
I said I can't draw and this proves it: the following sketch shows my concept for the back of the garden, or perhaps I should call the back the front, since that is the view that will most often be seen.
Another variation on this theme suggested itself to me on a recent visit to the Michner Museum in Doylestown, Pennsylvania (not far from Federal Twist). This work from the 1950s - whose maker's name I can't remember, and which uses irregular patinated copper rings, buffed or ground to a high polish on their upper sides to reflect light - suggests another variation on the trellis tower theme. The shadow box could be covered with thin copper sheeting treated with acid to give it a green patina. Only a thought, among many possibilities.
The general effect would be something like this simple trellis rectangle (to use an Internet photo I've used at least twice before), but with substantial differences. God is in the details, as they say.
A last shot of the garden in its present state, now with the fence walls stained a slate color, helps bring all this into focus, at least for me. The straight lines of the naked garden structure shown here will be reinforced by the regular pattern of tree trunks, and by the trellis tower positioned (where the camera lens is) on the main axis. This rigid garden structure will then be broken by drifts of boxwood, Bergenia, and other plants intentionally positioned to appear to flow diagonally, almost at random, across the grid.
That's the concept - awaiting the execution. (I hope all this comes together.)
Have you decided on that arrangement, then? I was pondering something a bit different--two sturdy trellises with square grid yielding "holes" of about a foot square. These trellises would extend from the side fences towards the middle stopping at a point shy of the midpoint of the pool and leaving a gap of (just guessing here, maybe 4 or 5 feet) in-between. The trellises would be away from the back fence wall at least a foot or 18 inches, but more if you could spare the room. In the gap between the trellises--the focal point behind the pool--a solid, interesting, antique door would be mounted flat to the garden fence. The trellises would be painted to match the fence or maybe darker? Vines would eventually grow on the trellises but not completely obscure the view or feeling of space happening behind the trellis.
ReplyDeleteI propose that this partial view through the trellis and any shadows happening on the wall behind would confuse the eye as to the actual boundaries of the space and suggest more a larger space. The door thing (suggesting egress) might be too overused at this point but not, I think, if the door used were sufficiently interesting as an artifact.
That's my 2 cents, anyway...and from an untrained amateur at that!
I love the progress photos!
Emily
Emily,
DeleteThis is the reason I do these navel gazing posts! I'm attracted to your idea of using a negative space to trick the eye with an illusion of depth and layers. I'll certainly be thinking about this, in some form. There are some practical considerations. I need at least four feet of maintenance space at the back, and I think I need room to plant corner trees, probably some narrow evergreens, to obscure a very ugly telephone pole at one corner and a tangle of overhead wires at the other.
But I do love the idea of a negative space on axis. Thank you.
When I first saw your second drawing, I thought you were indicating a 'green wall'. You weren't I realise but it's worth thinking of. Kerry
ReplyDeleteKerry,
DeleteIt is something like a green wall, but one made "green" by vines, possibly a mixture as in the Kate Gould photo. Certainly not a Patrick Blanc green wall with recirculating pumps and all that. Far too much of a maintenance headache.
It's really coming together so well. I think I like the idea of a red wall -- I wonder if you could work the color right into the plaster or stucco on the surface, so it wouldn't be as flat as paint.
ReplyDeleteI also feel I want to see the new house addition covered in creeping fig (although it's not hardy there), like Roz Carr's cottage in my post. But you probably want to enjoy that pure, clean space at the moment. And the dark grey fence looks great.
I've been wondering if I could stucco marine plywood. Building a masonry wall is too expensive at the moment ... and I'm not sure exactly what I'll do yet. I'm just trying these ideas on for size, so to speak. I'm intrigued by Emily's suggestion of using a negative space to add depth. As to the back of the extension, I love the way Boston Ivy moves in the wind, so I may use that or Virginia Creeper, or possibly even that beautiful grape vine, Vitis coignetiae, though the leaves may be too large. And they all have great autumn color.
ReplyDeleteI wouldn't rely on marine plywood. I think concrete backer board (as is used to frame-in showers and wet bath areas) would be better. Even then, you should seal the cut edges (at least) with a rubbery and completely waterproof compound--elastomeric something-or-other. I have seen even painted and sealed marine ply delaminate and deteriorate very rapidly.
ReplyDeleteI would like to see your plans include some sort of texture and depth to the cross-fencing. When I completed the fencing across my front yard with 2X2 pickets spaced an inch apart, I anticipated capturing shadow on the front and back planes of the fence (fence runs North/South) but I was surprised and delighted to discover the shadows that are captured on the sides of the pickets--VERY lively and interesting. Given the arrangement of your space, you may not have this opportunity, but it is something to consider, anyway.
Emily
I know the concrete board. Yes, that's a possibility--light enough to more through the house. Again, you've suggested an idea I like. I love the fence you built in your own garden. I remember remarking on it when I first saw your photos, so this is something I'd like to give thought to. It seems relatively easy to build, and I do have the north-south orientation. I know 1x2 is a standard size easy to get, but is 2x2 also standard?
DeleteYes, the 2X2 is a standard size. That's the nominal measurement, of course, so the actual picket is 1.75"X1.75" finished and comes in an 8 foot length. Here, in Seattle, you can get plain, soft wood or pressure treated. For my project, I judged the pressure treated to be too pricy for the benefit. For your trellises, I'd pictured 2X2 construction with a lap joint to keep them flush.
DeleteThere's a great fence in my neighborhood that has a very textural look achieved by alternating 2X2's and 2X3's in a pattern with a slim gap in-between. And another fence that's all 1X1's with an eighth inch gap between. Lots of possible textures. **Around here, it is not common to see either the 2X3's or the 1X1's, but they are available at the Big Orange Box, just not all the time.
Emily
My knowledge of carpentry is so limited I had to google "lap joint" to understand your comment. I'm a gardener, but not at all handy with any kind of construction. I'll definitely check out the big box stores to see what's available in our area. Thanks for the information.
DeleteHello James,
ReplyDeleteI'd also be skeptical of marine plywood. I wonder how expensive it would be to buy and then weld together two iron panels (the kind that they use to cover road construction holes), and then set them into cement. For a very New York Richard Serra look. I chatted once with the owner of the house/gallery on the corner of W 23rd and 10th, who built this building with these panels, and he said that it was no more expensive than regular construction. As they oxide, they would give you the red that tempts you.
But then it's very easy for us to bankrupt you! It's a shame that you're not in Italy, where they sell (for 20 euros) cast cement planters, six feet long, with an elemental geometric patterning that catches shadow in the way that Emily notes.
That's two warnings on marine plywood so I'll take that advice. I love Corten steel (or even those roadway construction plates you mention), but that would require a crane to lift it over the house, who knows how many permits, and the cost of steel. Impossible for me. Perhaps a wall of concrete blocks, which can be brought through the house in small pieces, covered with mortar? That's a possible solution. My fantasies are getting beyond my pocket book. I'm beginning to like Emily's original suggestion of lattice and a hole as negative space. But all these are airy fantasies, so please continue the suggestions.
DeleteHi James,
ReplyDeleteI don't want to flood your blog with comments, but I thought that pre-made lattice panels might be what you need. I've never seen this product in real life, but I've been impressed with their advertisements. Modern Lattice-- http://www.latticestix.com/index.php
Emily
That link appears to be a great resource, Emily. Thanks for the help. There are so many possibilities, I think I have to not make any firm decisions yet. I need to get the planting started, and especially important, to put in the trees so I can see what kind of planting might work at the very back to obscure a tall, rather ugly telephone pole just outside one corner of the garden and a tangle of telephone and cable wires above the other. Once that's done, I'll have a better understanding of my geometrical constraints. You've given me great information to use as I move forward.
DeleteHi James
ReplyDeleteI've just had a look at the lattice link Emily has sent. Food for thought. I like the idea of verdigris copper too.
The fence looks great by the way.
Rob,
DeleteEmily's full of really good ideas. I'm letting them percolate until I see something I feel I can accomplish.
Just some more options to help you obtain the look you want...
ReplyDeleteThis is a link to a company that sells metallic paint for exterior use. The paint has ground metal in it so it oxidizes just like the real thing. it comes in both copper and iron and some other metals. I haven't used this product, but I have seen it done and the results are really fabulous. It might be kind of obvious, but the success of the project depends upon how believable the item is (as a metal item) before being painted.
http://www.sculptnouveau.com/Details.cfm?ProdID=42
Another construction material you might think about is the cement fiberboard that is used for exterior siding. I Googled "cement fiberboard siding" and got a lot of choices. Some are available as smooth, rectangular panels that do not have embossed wood grain or anything other decoration. You could maybe imitate the look of corten construction by cladding a fence with a Mondrian-like assemblage of panels and then paint with the oxidizing iron paint.
I believe the siding board would be pretty impervious to weather if sealed properly and would be a better surface for paint than the concrete backer board I suggested as a possible substrate for stucco.
If you wish to go with a real copper-clad wall, I bet a roofer who installs copper roofs would be willing to give some guidance.
Emily
Emily,
DeleteI have an architect friend who is probably familiar with many of these materials. I'll talk to him about sources and techniques that might be applicable. I'm not familiar with cement fiberboard but it sounds interesting. Definitely a materials to find out more about. The oxidizing paint is an interesting idea too. I'd love to get an artist to apply it (where are you Peter Holt?); I'm no artist. Seriously, thanks for all this help. I really appreciate it.